![]() ![]() ![]() If the fluid expands with heat, and has literally nowhere to go, it will build pressure inside the MC fluid wells and will cause a rock hard pedal with dragging brakes, with the problem mysteriously clearing up as soon as things cool down even a small amount. We all know engine coolant expands considerably once hot, but very few know that brake fluid does the same. Guess what? All better! How? Why? Brake fluid is glycol based and will act just like engine coolant when hot. ![]() We will instruct the customer to suck out brake fluid out of the wells until they are just a bit over half full, then call us back with their findings. We have at least one customer a month that has overfilled their master cylinder, which can cause the brakes to drag when hot. Make sure that your master cylinder isn't overfilled. What the heck is going on with this thing? Any suggestions before I flatbed it to the local speedshop and drop a bunch of $$? There is no way this car can go that far without incident. I have a big cruise to attend about an hour and a half away on Saturday and the street machine nationals in Springfield in two weeks, which is over 2 hours away. The more you drive it, the worse it gets and I hear it coming from the rears as well. Today I made several adjustments and still hear the sound. Jacked it up and it spun like normal.Ĭontacted Wilwood on Monday morning and they said they thought the adjustment rod from the pedal to the master was adjusted too far out and too much residual pressure was the cause and effect of the caliper siezing although not sure why both sides wouldn't do it. OK, fast forward to last week coming home from Goodguys and I smelled something and the car was slowing down so I pulled off the highway and saw smoke coming from the right front caliper so it was binding and the pedal was hard as a rock when I stopped.Ĭalled the tow truck and 40 minutes later I was able to drive it up the flatbed and when we arrived at home, pulled it off and drove it into the garage. distances to some cruises and noticed that by the time I get there, the brakes are dragging and the noise is more constant. Over the summer I've only driven the car for 20-30 min. Let off or push harder and sound goes away, just drives me nuts and it just shouldn't be there. Internally, a refined return spring and piston assembly assures positive pressure control along with a quick and complete release.Installed Wilwood Big Brake Kit about 6 months ago and have always had a "honing" sound as you come to a stop. Integral cylinders feature a positive seal internal bellows cap. Wilwood’s new GS Compact Integral Master Cylinders are an all new rebuildable design featuring a high pressure die cast aluminum body with a protective e-coat finish. Finished an a durable long lasting e-coat finish for corrosion resistance. With a lightweight aluminum forged 11:1 ratio “H” beam lever with ergonomic grip in a choice of vertical or horizontal static lever positioning Accepts any vertical flange master cylinder with 2.25” mount centers. Wilwood handbrake lever assemblies provide a lightweight, high-leverage component for drift cars, drag race cars and rally cars or any application where hand-actuation of one or more brake calipers is employed. Wilwood Vertical Hand Brake Assembly with Master Cylinder Three Way Adjustable Remote Reservoir Dampers Two Way Adjustable Non Remote & Remote Reservoir Dampers ![]()
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